Soap-Based Liquid Wash Formulations with Enhanced Deposition of Make-Up Agents

ABSTRACT

The invention relates to soap based liquid body and facial wash compositions. Using high solvent, low water compositions and incompletely neutralized fatty acid to help structure the compositions, all in combination with modified benefit agents, enhanced deposition of make-up agents is achieved.

CROSS REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS

Applicants are filing, together with this application, two relatedapplications. One is directed to compositions for enhanced deposition ofskin appearance enhancing agents and one to compositions for enhanceddeposition of antimicrobial agents.

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to soap-based liquid body and facial washcompositions. In particular, it relates to such compositions comprisingmake-up agents (e.g., iron oxide pigments), and to a method of enhancingdeposition of these make-up agents. Specifically, using high solvent/lowwater compositions together with incompletely neutralized fatty acids(which together help structure compositions) in combination withmodified benefit agents (particles and oils), enhanced deposition of themake-up agents is achieved from unpredictably stable compositions.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Wash-off cleanser compositions in which soap comprises 50% or more,preferably 75% or more, preferably 90% or more of the surfactant systemare based on traditional fatty acid soaps (alkali metal or ammoniumsalts of C₈-C₂₄ fatty acids), and the soaps are beneficial fordeposition of benefit agent oil which may be used in these compositions.The soap also provides “squeaky-clean” rinse preferred by manyconsumers.

Soap-based cleaners with high levels of benefit agents, however, can bephysically unstable under storage. The benefit agents are typicallydispersed as a separate phase within the formulation (e.g., as emulsionor dispersion of fine particles under about 100 microns), and maypossess density higher (for most particles) or lower (for skin-enhancingoils) than the bulk phase. The high viscosity of soap-based body washesis typically due to suspension of liquid/solid crystal domains withinthe bulk. This phase space fills the system and helps provide creamytexture as well as to structure against phase separation.

Upon storage at high temperature, however, the crystal phase can melt toyield a lower viscosity micellar phase and the benefit agents tend tocream to the top (most oils) or sediment to the bottom (most particles).This is both esthetically unpleasing and can affect product performance(uneven dosing). The present invention circumvents the stability problemby requiring the simultaneous presence of several additives to increasesthe physical stability of a soap-based personal washing formulation athigher temperatures and to improve the deposition of conditioning and/orskin appearance enhancing agents.

Specifically, the invention requires 10% to 50% by weight of a fattyacid blend of C₁₂-C₁₈ fatty acids, where the degree of neutralization ofthe blend is between 70% and 90%. It further requires 10-40% definedco-solvents, water levels at or below 18%, preferably at or below 16%,more preferably at or below 10%; incorporation of 3-20% emollient orocclusive oil (e.g., polar oils or non-polar oils such as mineral oil orpetrolatum); a make-up agent (e.g., metal oxide pigments such as ironoxide); wherein polar or non-polar oil and/or make-up agent particlesare modified to improve dispersibility and stability (e.g., viatreatment with hydrophobic agent such as multivalent soap and/or otherhydrophobic agents such as hydrophobically modified cationic orhydrophobically modified non-ionic polymer). It is only through thisunique combination of criticalities that applicants have surprisinglyachieved high deposition compositions which are stable.

The following references are noted:

US 2004/0234565 A1 discloses a composition used to alter the color ofskin. Pigment is dispersed in an oil phase which is in turn dispersedwithin an aqueous phase containing synthetic surfactant and stabilizedby carboxylic acid polymers.

US 2004/0223929 A1 discusses the combination of a hydrophobicallymodified interference (platy) particle dispersed in a skin compatibleoil which is itself emulsified within an aqueous cleansing phasecontaining synthetic surfactants.

US 2005/0100570 A1 claims a personal cleansing formulation consisting ofan aqueous phase and a dispersed oil phase. The aqueous phase is basedon anionic synthetic surfactants and displays a shear thinning rheology.

US 2006/0239953 A1 describes a rinseable personal care compositioncontaining a dispersed moisturizing oil phase. This phase is structuredby co-addition of a high modulus oil structurant such as petrolatum,microcrystalline wax, polyethylene, or polydecene.

US 2007/0207936 A1 recognizes that body washes based on rod-like orworm-like micelles with high levels of emollient oil are generallyunstable towards storage at elevated temperature. Stability can beimproved if the surfactant system can be formulated into a lamellarphase through the specific combination of a cationic guar gum, sodiumtrideceth sulfate, lauroamphoacetate, and salt. A very low shear ratemust be maintained while mixing the formulation so as to keep thelamellar phase dispersed as spherulites.

U.S. Pat. No. 6,987,085 B2 describes a skin cleanser with 20-50% fattyacids and fatty acid salts with 10-30% of the fatty acids being of chainlength C₂₀-C₂₄. The systems discussed are richer in fatty acids of chainlength C₁₆ and longer than they are in acids of chain length C₁₅ orshorter. The degree of neutralization of the fatty acid is kept in therange 70-90% and glycols or glycol ethers are also present at levels of5-25%. The water content of the invention can range from 20-70%.

US 2007/0213242 A1 specifies an oxyethylenated derivative of behenylalcohol or behenic acid at a 1% level to improve the high temperatuestorage stability of soap-based foaming creams.

US 2007/0213243 A1 proposes to solve the poor high temperature storagestability of soap-based liquid cleansers by addition of 6-8% of analkali-swellable, crosslinked acrylic emulsion polymer. The fatty acidsand acrylic acids are first fully neutralized and then back-treated withcitric acid to reduce the pH into the range 7.7-8.7, where superiorstorage stability is achieved.

US 2003/0078172 A1 discloses a skin cleanser which fits the category ofa foaming cream—an opaque, viscous aqueous medium which is comprised ofa mixture of fatty acid (soaps) or other surfactants and otheradditives. This invention combines a wax such as carnauba wax or beeswax(at 1-10%) and a surfactant system which forms a paracrystalline phaseof direct hexagonal or cubic texture when the ambient temperatureincreases above 30° C. The paracrystalline phase remains stable up to atleast 45° C. and so improves the storage stability of the foaming cream.The surfactants employed are a mixture of water-soluble andwater-insoluble agents, such as the potassium salts of lauric andmyristic acids (soluble) and the potassium salts of palmitic and stearicacid (insoluble). The insoluble salts contribute to the formation of thenormal hexagonal phase. The levels of these surfactants should total40-60%, with 5-35% insoluble and 15-35% soluble materials. Solvents suchas glycerol and/or polyethylene glycol PEG 8 can be present at 5 to 20%.

Finally, as noted in cross-reference, applicants are filing on samedate, in addition to this application for deposition of make-up agents(e.g., metal oxide pigments, such as iron oxide pigments), oneapplication directed to deposition of conditioning and/or skinappearance and/or optical enhancing agents (e.g., TiO₂) and one directedto deposition of antimicrobial agents.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The present invention provides soap-based liquid compositions which arestable, even at high temperature storage, and which provide enhanceddeposition of make-up agents.

Specifically the invention comprises:

-   -   (1) 10-50%, preferably 25 to 40%, more preferably 30 to 40% by        weight of a fatty acid blend of C₁₂-C₁₈ fatty acids;    -   (2) wherein degrees of neutralization of fatty acid blend is        between 70% and 90%;    -   (3) 10-40% by weight co-solvent (e.g., selected from the group        including glycerol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol,        diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and mixtures thereof);    -   (4) less than about 18%, preferably less than 16%, more        preferably less than about 10% by weight water such that the        ratio of co-solvent to water lies in the range 0.4 to 10,        preferably 0.8 to 7, more preferably 1.0 to 5;    -   (5) 3 to 20% by weight emollient or occlusive oils (e.g., polar        or non-polar oils such as mineral oil, petrolatum or the like);    -   (6) 0.1 to 60% by wt. make-up agent (e.g., metal oxide such as        iron oxide, copper oxide or mixtures thereof); and    -   (7) wherein (5) and (6) are modified, for example, by treatment        with hydrophobic agent such as multivalent soap and/or other        hydrophobic agents such as hydrophobically modified cationic or        hydrophobically modified non-ionic polymer, to improve        dispersibility and stability.

The first four requirements of a high level of fatty acids, includinglonger chain fatty acids, which are incompletely neutralized in a lowwater, high polyol environment, leads to an extensive liquid/solidcrystalline phase which acts to fill-space and structure theformulation. The requirements (1)-(4) raise the reversion temperature(crystalline phase-to-isotropic phase) of the crystalline phase to abovethat usually encountered in storage. Elevation of the reversiontemperature to 35° C. or higher is preferred. Elevation to 40° C. orhigher is more preferred and elevation to 45° C. or higher would be mostpreferred. The seventh requirement is a stabilizer for the benefitingagents (e.g., particles) or oil droplets (fifth and sixth requirements)which prevents these species from flocculating in the body/facial washbase. It is well known that the sedimentation or creaming rate of adispersed phase increases as the second power of the dispersed particlesize (“Principles of Colloid and Surface Chemistry”, P. C. Hiemenz andR. Rajagopalan, Marcel Dekker, NY (1997) ISBN 0-8247-9397-8). Thus bypreventing particle size growth, these undesirable processes can bedelayed indefinitely. The stabilizer consists of a hydrophobic agentsuch as multivalent soap and/or other hydrophobic agents such ashydrophobically modified cationic polymer, or a hydrophobically modifiedwater-soluble polymer, all of which have an affinity for both oildroplets and benefiting particles.

The compositions can be body/facial wash liquid or foam with superiorstability and deposition; or cleansing make-up with simultaneousdelivery of facial cleansing and/or moisturization.

In a second embodiment, the invention relates to a method of enhancingdeposition of make-up agents using compositions of the invention.Specifically, skin is washed (e.g., in bath, shower or any means bywhich liquid soap composition is typically applied) for a period of timein which composition is typically applied (e.g., from one second to upto one hour, more typically, five seconds to five to ten minutes).

These and other aspects, features and advantages will become apparent tothose of ordinary skill in the art from a reading of the followingdetailed description and the appended claims. For the avoidance ofdoubt, any feature of one aspect of the present invention may beutilized in any other aspect of the invention. It is noted that theexamples given in the description below are intended to clarify theinvention and are not intended to limit the invention to those examplesper se. Other than in the experimental examples, or where otherwiseindicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients or reactionconditions used herein are to be understood as modified in all instancesby the term “about”. Similarly, all percentages are weight/weightpercentages of the total composition unless otherwise indicated.Numerical ranges expressed in the format “from x to y” are understood toinclude x and y. When for a specific feature multiple preferred rangesare described in the format “from x to y”, it is understood that allranges combining the different endpoints are also contemplated. Wherethe term “comprising” is used in the specification or claims, it is notintended to exclude any terms, steps or features not specificallyrecited. All temperatures are in degrees Celsius (° C.) unless specifiedotherwise. All measurements are in SI units unless specified otherwise.All documents cited are—in relevant part—incorporated herein byreference.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES

FIG. 1 shows effects of increasing levels of hydrophobically modifiedpolymer (specifically of poly(1-vinylpyrrolidone)-graft 1-hexadecene) onparticles (titania) suspension. Specifically, high levels lead toenhanced suspension/stability (as noted by less transmittance).

FIG. 2 is surface tension of methanol/water mixtures at 20° C. used inthe description of the flotation test protocol. Data is taken from“Handbook of Chemistry and Physics, 57^(th) Edition”, R. C. West,Editor, CRC Press, 1976, page F-44.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

Many personal care or washing compositions do not provide sufficientdeposition of conditioning agents, such as hydrocarbon and siliconeoils, or of skin appearance enhancers, such as pigments and particles,on to skin during the cleansing process. Without such deposition, alarge fraction of the benefiting agent is rinsed away during thecleansing process and therefore provides no appreciable benefit. As aresult, very high levels of benefit agent may be required in thepersonal care composition to deliver perceivable performance—meaningincreased raw materials cost and potentially hurting performance inother areas, such as lathering. One reason for this poor deposition isthe detersive surfactants usually employed in personal carecompositions, which work to remove oil, grease, and dirt from the skinbut which also inhibit deposition of the benefit agent and removealready deposited agent. The current (partial) remedy for this problemis to use a specific surfactant system, consisting largely of syntheticanionic surfactants (detergents), combined with emulsified oil phaseswhose internal phase is structured with crystalline waxes and oils. Thisapproach has been specified in several recent US Patent publications,such as US 2006/0239953 A1, US 2005/0100570 A1, and US 2007/0207936 A1.

The current invention makes use of surfactant systems which are largelydevoid of synthetic surfactant (detergents), by which is meant thatsynthetic surfactants constitute less than 25%, preferably less than 10%of the total surfactant content of the formulation. In other words,fatty acid soaps make up 75% by weight or more of the total surfactantpresent. More preferably, soaps would constitute 90% or more of thetotal surfactant in the formulation. The total surfactant level (soapsplus other surfactants) in a typical body/facial wash is usually in therange of 15-40%. The chain length of the fatty acid soaps wouldtypically fall into the range of C₁₂-C₁₈, with body wash formulationsbeing richer in the shorter chain lengths within this range and facialwash formulations being richer in the longer chains.

However, soap-rich personal washing products generally show physicalinstability upon storage at elevated temperature and may thus beinappropriate for sale in warm weather markets. This drawback has beendiscussed in recent US Patent publications, with one approach being toinclude a long chain fatty acid soap or fatty acid derivative at levelsof 1-30%. Specific additives claimed are C₂₀-C₂₄ fatty acids (U.S. Pat.No. 6,987,085 B2) and oxyethyleneated derivatives of behenyl (C₂₂)alcohol (US 2007/0213242 A1). The current invention requires thesimultaneous presence of several additives and that the benefit agent(s)be treated with hydrophobic agent such as multivalent soap and/or otherhydrophobic agents. They should be hydrophobically modified to increasethe physical stability and/or dispersibility of a soap-based personalwashing formulation at higher temperatures and to improve the depositionof conditioning or skin appearance enhancing agents.

More specifically the invention comprises:

-   -   (1) 10-50% by weight of a fatty acid blend of C₁2-C₁₈ fatty        acids; Preferably, the level of fatty acid blend will be 20% to        40%, more preferably 30% to 40%.    -   (2) wherein degrees of neutralization of fatty acid blend is        between 70% and 90%; preferably between 75% and 85%, most        preferably between 77% and 81%.    -   (3) 10-40% by weight co-solvent (e.g., selected from the group        including glycerol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol,        diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and mixtures thereof);    -   (4) less than about 18%, preferably less than 16%, more        preferably less than about 10% by weight water, such that the        ratio of cosolvent to water lies in the range 0.4 to 10,        preferably 0.8-7, more preferably 1.0 to 5.    -   (5) 3 to 20% by weight oils or emollient (e.g., polar or        non-polar oils such as mineral oil, petrolatum and the like);    -   (6)0.1 to 60% by wt. make-up agent (e.g., iron oxide pigments,        copper oxide pigments, or mixtures thereof);    -   (7) wherein (5) and (6) are modified, for example, by treatment        with hydrophobic agent such as multivalent soap and/or other        hydrophobic agents such as hydrophobically modified cationic or        hydrophobically modified non-ionic polymer, to improve        dispersibility and stability.

As described in Example 32 below, hydrophobically modified particles ofthe invention are those which show a critical surface tension (measuredby flotation test protocol described) of 40 milli-Newtons per meter(mN/m) or below, preferably 30 mN/m or below. Particles of the inventionall meet this criterion.

As far as hydrophobic modifying agents, typically soaps and othernon-polymeric agents would have hydrophile-lipophilic balance (HLB)number of 1 to 5. Typically, such agents are either completelynon-dispersible or poorly dispersible in water. This is described, forexample, in “Nonionic Surfactants” by Paul Becher, edited by M. J.Schick, Marcel Dekker, Inc., NY (1966), hereby incorporated by referenceinto the subject application. Hydrophobically modified cationic ornonionic polymers are polymers containing hydrophobic co-monomers.Hydrophobicity is a relative property (see US 2006/0266488 A1), but ispreferably embodied by co-monomers having at least 6 or more carbons,preferably 8 or more carbons.

The invention comprises 10-50%, preferably 20-40%, more preferably30-40% by wt. of blend of C₁₂ to C₁₈ fatty acids. A typical blend maycomprise a mix of lauric, myristic, palmitic and stearic acids.

The composition may comprise a small amount of synthetic anionic (e.g.,taurate, sulfates) and/or nonionic surfactants although, if needed,these will typically comprise less than 5%, preferably 0.5-4% of thecomposition.

The degree of neutralization of the fatty acids noted above (fatty acidblend) is between 70 and 90%, preferably between 75 and 85%, morepreferably 77 to 81%. Combination of underneutralized fatty acids in lowwater, high co-solvents system are believed to help produce liquid/solidcrystalline phase needed to space-fill and structure.

As indicated, 10-40% co-solvent is used. Preferred co-solvent (toproduce the right environment) includes glycerol, ethylene glycol,propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and mixturesthereof.

Particularly preferred co-solvents are propylene and dipropylene glycolas well as diethylene glycol. If dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol ordiethylene glycol are used, it is preferred that alone or in combinationthey comprise >30%, preferably >40%, more preferably >50% of theco-solvent system as these offer particularly unpredictableimprovements.

As also indicated, low water environment (18% by weight or less,preferably 16% by weight or less, more preferably 10% by weight or less)is also needed to help get the right liquid/crystal crystalline phase.

Another unpredictable aspect of the invention in this regard is theratio of co-solvent to water. As this ratio increases (higherco-solvent, lower water), deposition is particularly enhanced. Ratios of0.4 to 10, preferably 0.8 to 7, more preferably 1 to 5 are preferred.

The formulation also requires 3 to 20% oils and/or emollients (e.g.,mineral oil, petrolatum). The oil can belong to the class of occlusiveoils, which are defined as oils that are liquid or semisolid at thestorage and/or application temperature and which are safe for use incosmetics, being either beneficial or inert to skin. The example ofcompatible oils for the present invention includes polar and non-polaroils such as hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, ester oils or mixturesthereof. Some of the oils are thickened to enhance the rheologicalproperties of the occlusive oils and the products. Two preferred oilsincluded mineral oil and petrolatum. In general, the oil can be modifiedby addition of a stabilizer—a hydrophobically modified water-solublepolymer with affinity for oil droplets and benefiting agents. Onepreferred polymer is poly(1-vinylpyrrolidone)-graft 1-hexadecene (e.g.,from Sigma Aldrich Inc.).

In a co-pending application, the formulation also requires 0.01 to 15%of a skin appearance enhancing agent which is preferably an opticalparticle such as mica, talc or titania (TiO₂). The surface properties ofthe particles or pigments used for those agents and/or make-up agentsclaimed in the present invention should be naturally hydrophobic orhydrophobically modified. Surface modification is performed to alter thephysical properties and can include lipophilic treatments with aminosilicone to simplify the dispersion of pigments in anhydrous systems,hydrophobic treatments with silanes and methicone to maximize waterrepellency, perfluoroalkyl phosphate treatments to make the treatedpigment both lipophobic and hydrophobic and by hydrophobic modificationvia treatment with multivalent soaps or with polymers/co-polymers, suchas modification with aluminum soap of myristic, palmitic, stearic acid,etc. or with methicone, silica, acrylate, silicon co polymer, carnaubawax, polyethylene, etc. In short the invention is intended to includeall hydrophobically modified particles surface treated by surfacetreatment houses including those by Kobo products, US cosmetics, RoanaEMD, Cardre, etc. Hydrophobicity can be tested as described in theinvention.

In another co-pending application, the compositions are used fordeposition of anti-microbial agents.

As for the make-up agents of the subject invention, these includepigments such as metal oxides, including iron oxide and copper oxidepigments; salts such as insoluble colored salts, for example, insolubleiron or copper hydroxide; or any one of hundreds of other similar typesof pigments used in make-up compositions, as well as mixtures of any ofthese. The range of make-up pigment and/or salt can be from 0.1 to 60%,preferably 0.2 to 25%, more preferably 1 to 10% by wt.

The requirements (1)-(4) help raise temperatures at which crystallinephase reverts to isotopic (crystalline being more stable than isotropic)so that the composition is more stable at elevated temperatures.Reversion at temperatures of 35° C. or up, preferably 40° C. and morepreferably 45° C. and up is preferred.

The following examples are intended to further illustrate the inventionand are not intended to limit the invention in any way.

Protocols

Deposition Test Protocol—The following test was found to givereproducible results for pigment deposition under controlled conditions:

0.2 g of neat formulation was diluted with 3 mL of hot tap water (50°C.) in a 1 ounce cup and dispersed well by treating for 20 seconds withan ultrasonic processor (Sonics Vibra Cell) at an output power of 20watts. A 3×6 cm² piece of Parafilm was placed, smooth side up, on a flatcountertop and one-half of the surface was covered with adhesive tape,leaving a 3×3 cm² surface exposed. 0.3 g of the resulting wash liquorwas delivered via a pipette to the center of the Parafilm and the liquorwas lightly rubbed in (0.2 lb/in²) using a gloved fore-finger for 30 s.The treated area should be centered on the edge of the taped-off region.The Parafilm was rinsed under a steady stream of warm water (40° C.,flow rate of 100 cc/second) for 10 seconds and patted dry. Upon carefulremoval of the adhesive tape, a sharp interface was created between thetreated and untreated Parafilm. The volume of hot water used to form thewash liquor can be varied over a wide range (for example 1-10 mL), but 3mL was chosen to maximize discrimination of the tested formulations.

The Parafilm sheet was next mounted on a Nikon Eclipse E600 LightMicroscope and a brightfield image of the treated area was captured at100× magnification using a Nikon Digital Camera DXM1200. The imaged areashould include the interface between the treated and control Parafilmsurfaces. An open-source image analysis software package (Image J) wasused to convert the photo-micrograph to grey scale and thresholding wasperformed to distinguish the deposited particles. Image J is freelyavailable from the web site: rsb.info.nih.gov/ij. The average pixel greyscale was determined on the untreated half of the image and used tocorrect that of the treated half. Several images were taken fromdifferent parts of each piece of treated Parafilm and several treatedpieces were made up for each formulation. The pixel averages and errorbars for each formulation were obtained from averaging 8 to 10 images. Apercentage of surface coverage was then calculated by dividing the pixelaverage by 255 (equivalent to complete coverage) and then multiplying by100.

Flotation Test Protocol—To gauge the degree of hydrophobic modificationof enhancing particles, the surface energy of the isolated particles wasestimated by measuring the critical surface tension for flotation, asdescribed by M. C. Williams and D. W. Fuerstenau (“A simple flotationmethod for rapidly assessing the hydrophobicity of coal particles”,International Journal of Mineral Processing, volume 20, pages 153-157(1987)). In this measurement, a monolayer of closely sized particles iscarefully deposited on the surface of a methanol/water mixture. Theparticles generally either float on the surface or are immediatelyimbided by the liquid and sink. The ratio of methanol to water is variedand, as a result, the surface tension of the solution varies as shown inFIG. 2 (data from “Handbook of Chemistry and Physics, 57^(th) Edition”,R. C. Weast, Editor, CRC Press, 1976, page F-44). The approximatefraction of the particles which float (determined visually) can beplotted versus the surface tension corresponding to the appropriatemethanol/water mixture. The particles which float are hydrophobic for agiven surface tension, while those which sink are hydrophilic. Thesurface tension, at which 50% of the particles sink/float was taken asthe critical surface tension for flotation. By analogy with the betterknown critical surface tension for wetting (A. W. Adamson, “PhysicalChemistry of Surfaces, 3^(rd) Edition”, Wiley, 1976), this criticalsurface tension for flotation is taken as an estimate for the particlesurface energy. The reasoning is that the liquid will not wet theparticle (causing it to sink) unless its surface tension is less thanthe surface energy of the particle. Thus the lower the critical surfacetension for wetting, the more hydrophobic is the particle. In practice,hydrophobically modified particles were found to have critical surfacetensions of 40 mN/m or below, more preferably 30 mN/m and below. Thistest was used to show that treated particles of the invention did becomehydrophobically modified.

EXAMPLES Example 1

This example demonstrates the stabilization of TiO₂ in mineral oil usinga hydrophobically modified water-soluble polymer. The polymer is asample of poly(1-vinylpyrrolidone)-graft 1-hexadecene purchased fromSigma-Aldrich Inc. This polymer is soluble at a level of greater than10% in mineral oil (White Paraffin Oil, 180-190 Saybolt Viscostiy). A 1%polymer-in-mineral oil solution was prepared and used to make furtherdilutions to 0.5%, 0.2%, 0.1%, 0.05%. 0.02%, and 0.01% in mineral oil. A2% dispersion of aluminum myristate coated TiO₂ in mineral oil wasprepared in parallel using an ultrasonic probe (Ultrasonic Processorfrom Sonics Vibra-Cell). Then, 0.2 g of this dispersion was diluted to 5g with one of the polymer-containing mineral oil solutions andthoroughly sonicated using three, ten second pulses at a power settingof 80%. A 3 mL portion of each sample was transferred to a cylindricalcuvette and the initial transmittance at 450 nm of the sample wasmeasured using a Cary 330 Bio/UV Spectrophotometer. Following thismeasurement, each cuvette was centrifuged for 30 minutes at 1000 rpm(180 rcf) on an Eppendorf 5804 Centrifuge. The cuvette transmittance wasthen remeasured and the sample subjected to a second 30 minute treatmentin the centrifuge. This sequential process was repeated and the trend ofmeasured transmittance with centrifugation cycles is shown in FIG. 1.

As seen, at levels as low as 0.10% polymer, transmittance value remainedlow even after high number of centrifugation cycles. This indicates theTiO₂ remained in suspension. Separate experiments indicate this polymergives some benefit under these conditions down to polymer levels as lowas 0.01%.

Formulation Examples 2-4 Effect of Dipropylene Glycol (DPG) to WaterRatio on Deposition, Comparative Examples A and B

In examples below, the co-solvent level of facial foam formulation isincreased sequentially and the water level reduced in proportion.

Full chemical name A Ex. 2 B Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Lauric acid (fatty acid) 4.904.90 4.90 4.90 4.90 Myristic acid (fatty acid) 8.05 8.05 8.05 8.05 8.05Palmitic acid (fatty acid) 10.69 10.69 10.69 10.69 10.69 Stearic acid(fatty acid) 9.37 9.37 9.37 9.37 9.37 Potassium hydroxide 5.84 5.84 5.845.84 5.84 Sodium N-cocoyl N-methyl Taurate 2.19 2.19 2.19 2.19 2.19(surfactant) Polyoxyethylene cetylether (20 E.O)/ 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.000.00 Brij-58 (surfactant) Dipropylene Glycol (cosolvent) 8.80 20.00 0.0017.00 13.80 Glycerin (cosolvent) 11.80 11.80 11.80 11.80 11.80 Maltitolsolu. 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 Aluminum dimyristate coated TiO2 4.004.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 Merquat-100 (cationic polymer) 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.400.40 Mineral oil (oil) 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Petroleum Jelly (PJ)(oil) 8.00 8.00 8.00 8.00 8.00 Water to 100 20.96 9.76 29.76 12.76 15.96

The above examples demonstrate the utility of high levels of cosolventand simultaneous low water levels in improving deposition of particle,e.g. TiO₂. The examples show that, when dipropylene glycol (DPG) is oneof the solvents in the cosolvent system, deposition is even better.Indeed, the greater the ratio of DPG/water, the better the deposition.This is seen from deposition results below:

Percent surface Example No. Cosolvent/water ratio coverage Comparative B(0% DPG) 0.4 5.7 ± 1 Comparative A (8.8% DPG) 0.98 19.8 ± 8  4 (13.8%DPG) 1.6 38.4 ± 15 3 (17% DPG) 2.3 37.5 ± 15 2 (20% DPG) 3.3 74.6 ± 16

The above examples demonstrate the utility of high levels of cosolventand simultaneous low water levels in improving deposition of titaniaparticle.

Formulation Example 5-9 Degree of Soap Neutralization

Degree of Neutralization 75.0% 77.5% 80.0% 82.5% 85.0% Full chemicalname Ex. 5 Ex. 6 Ex. 7 Ex. 8 Ex. 9 Lauric acid 4.90 4.90 4.90 4.90 4.90Myristic acid 8.05 8.05 8.05 8.05 8.05 Palmitic acid 10.69 10.69 10.6910.69 10.69 Stearic acid 9.37 9.37 9.37 9.37 9.37 Potassium hydroxide5.64 5.84 6.02 6.22 6.40 Sodium N-cocoyl 2.19 2.19 2.19 2.19 2.19N-methyl Taurate Polyoxyethylene 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 cetylether (20E.O)/ Brij-58 Dipropylene Glycol 13.80 13.80 13.80 13.80 13.80(Co-solvent) Glycerin 11.80 11.80 11.80 11.80 11.80 Maltitol solu. 3.003.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 TiO2 (particle) 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 Merquat-100(cationic) 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 Mineral oil (oil) 2.00 2.00 2.002.00 2.00 PJ (oil) 8.00 8.00 8.00 8.00 8.00 Water to 100 15.76 15.9615.78 15.58 15.40

The above examples demonstrate the utility of controlling the degree offatty acid neutralization to lie between 70% and 90%, especially 77 and81% in maintaining formulation physical stability and optimaldeposition.

More specifically, as seen from the Table below, in the optimum rangebetween 77 and 81% neutralization, the greatest deposition is achievedas seen from percent surface coverage results.

Percent Surface Ex. Degree of Neutralization Coverage 5   75%neutralization 26 ± 10 6 77.5% neutralization 38.4 ± 15   7 80.0%neutralization 38.8 ± 15   8 82.5% neutralization 2 ± 2 9   85%neutralization 16 ± 8 

Examples 10-14

Full chemical name 10 11 12 13 14 Lauric acid 4.90 4.90 4.90 4.90 4.90Myristic acid 8.05 8.05 8.05 8.05 8.05 Palmitic acid 10.69 10.69 10.6910.69 10.69 Stearic acid 9.37 9.37 9.37 9.37 9.37 Potassium hydroxide5.64 5.84 6.02 6.22 6.40 Sodium N-cocoyl N-methyl Taurate 2.19 2.19 2.192.19 2.19 Polyoxyethylene cetylether 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 (20E.O)/Brij-58 Dipropylene Glycol 20.00 20.00 20.00 20.00 20.00 Glycerin11.80 11.80 11.80 11.80 11.80 Maltitol solu. 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00TiO₂ 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 Merquat-100 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40Mineral oil 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Petroleum Jelly 8.00 8.00 8.00 8.008.00 Water to 100 9.96 9.76 9.58 9.38 9.20

The above examples are analgous to examples 5-9, but using 20% DPG,instead of 13.8. Again, they demonstrate the utility of controlling thedegree of neutralization between 70% and 90%.

Specifically, as seen from the Table below, in the optimum range ofbetween 77 and 81% neutralization, the greatest deposition is achievedas seen again by percent surface coverage.

Example Degree of Neutralization Percent surface coverage 10   75%neutralization 24 ± 12 11 77.5% neutralization 60 ± 16 12 80.0%neutralization 52 ± 20 13 82.5% neutralization 37 ± 16 14   85%neutralization 43 ± 16

Formulation Examples 15-27 Best Co-Solvents

Variations are made on the general formulation given in the table belowby varying the type of co-solvent, keeping the co-solvent level fixed at20%, on top of a baseline glycerin level of 11.8%, and the degree ofsoap neutralization at 77.5%.

Full chemical name Base for Example Lauric acid 4.90 Myristic acid 8.05Palmitic acid 10.69 Stearic acid 9.37 Potassium hydroxide 5.84 SodiumN-cocoyl N-methyl Taurate 2.19 Polyoxyethylene cetylether (20E.O)/Brij-58 0.00 Cosolvent 20.00 Glycerin 11.80 Maltitol solu. 3.00TiO₂ 4.00 Merquat-100 (cationic polymer) 0.40 Mineral oil 2.00 PetroleumJelly 8.00 Water to 100 9.76

The results of deposition studies made with each formulation are asfollow:

Example Percent surface No. Cosolvent (solubility parameter*,√(cal/cm³)) coverage 15 Ethylene glycol (14.6) 13 ± 8  16 Diethyleneglycol (12.1) 29 ± 12 17 PEG 200 (12.8) 21 ± 12 18 PEG 400 (11.1) 12 ±6  19 Propylene glycol (12.6) 35 ± 8  20 Dipropylene glycol (10.0) 60 ±16 21 PPG 9 (7.5) 10 ± 4  22 Butylene glycol (12.8) 18 ± 8  23Dipropylene glycol methyl ether (9.3) 5 ± 1 24 Glycerin (16.5) 6 ± 2 25Sorbitol (18.7) 7 ± 4 26 Urea (18.8) 14 ± 8  27 Sucrose 4 ± 2 *valuesfrom: “Polymer Handbook”, Eds. Brandrup, J.; Immergut, E. H.; Grulke, E.A., 4^(th) Edition, John Wiley, New York, 1999, and Richardson, J. C.;Dettmar, P. W.; Hampson, F. C.; Melia, C. D. European J. PharmaceuticalSci. 23, 49-56 (2004).

The most preferred cosolvents for body/facial washes are polyhydricalcohols (see US 2007/0293411A1, US 2008/0008672 A1) such as glycerol,polyethylene glycol (PEG), propylene glycol, polypropylene glycol (PPG),butylene glycol, and sorbitol. These cosolvents are compared above withdipropylene glycol and the results demonstrate the superiority ofdipropylene glycol over other typical glycols and glycol ethers forimproving deposition from soap-rich formulations.

Noting the chemical structures of some of the cosolvents examined:

-   Ethylene glycol: HOCH₂CH₂OH-   Diethylene glycol: HOCH₂CH₂—O—CH₂CH₂OH-   PEG 200 (3): H(OCH₂CH₂)₃OH-   PEG 400 (8): H(OCH₂CH₂)₈OH-   Propylene glycol: HOCH(CH₃)—CH₂OH-   Dipropylene glycol: HOCH(CH₃)—CH₂—O—CH₂—(CH₃)CHOH-   PPG 9: H(OCH(CH₃)—CH₂)₉OH-   Butylene glycol: HOCH(CH₃)CH₂CH₂OH

A trend can be observed in which, over the homologous series ethylene,propylene, and butylene, deposition shows a maximum at propylene.Further, as a function of the degree of polymerization, a maximum isfound at two repeat units. Dipropylene glycol represents the optimum ofboth these trends. It can also be observed in the above table that thereis no simple correlation of deposition with the Hildebrand SolubilityParameter.

Comparative Examples C-F Other Controls

In these examples, we demonstrate that certain aspects of the inventionare critical for the claimed functions. Identical formulations areprepared at 77.5% soap neutralization and 20% dipropylene glycol, butwith one or more critical ingredients withheld.

Full chemical name C D E F Lauric acid 4.90 4.90 4.90 4.90 Myristic acid8.05 8.05 8.05 8.05 Palmitic acid 10.69 10.69 10.69 10.69 Stearic acid9.37 9.37 9.37 9.37 Potassium hydroxide 5.84 5.84 5.84 5.84 SodiumN-cocoyl N-methyl Taurate 2.19 2.19 2.19 2.19 Polyoxyethylene cetylether(20 E.O)/Brij- 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 58 Dipropylene Glycol 20.00 20.0020.00 20.00 Glycerin 11.80 11.80 11.80 11.80 Maltitol solu. 3.00 3.003.00 3.00 ¹Aluminum dimyristate coated TiO₂ 4.00 4.00 4.00 0.00²Standard anatase titanium dioxide 0.00 0.00 0.00 4.00 Merquat-100 0.400.00 0.00 0.40 Mineral oil 0.00 2.00 0.00 2.00 Petroleum Jelly 0.00 8.000.00 8.00 Water to 100 19.76 10.16 20.16 9.76 ¹US Cosmetics CorporationMT-TAK-77891. ²American International Chemical, Inc. TIOKFP.The results of deposition studies made with each formulation are asfollow:

Percent surface Example No. coverage C (no oil) 1 ± 1 D (no polymer) 41± 12 E (no oil or polymer) 1 ± 1 F (uncoated pigment) 1 ± 1

These results clearly demonstrate the criticality of the oil componentand the hydrophobic modification of the pigment in achieving effectivelevels of deposition. The example which was different from the inventiononly in the absence of cationic polymer (D) showed good deposition, buthad poor physical storage stability, phase separating after one week'sstorage at 45° C. Example F had oil, cationic and particle but, becauseparticle was not coated, deposition was very low.

Formulation Examples 28-31 Other Hydrophobically Coated Pigments

In these examples, we demonstrate that hydrophobically modified pigmentsother than titanium may be incorporated into the invention and can beshown to be deposited during a simulated wash. These findings supportthe invention of a cleansing make-up. The degree of soap neutralizationis held at 77.5% and all formulations contain 20% dipropylene glycol.

Full chemical name 28 29 30 31 Lauric acid 4.90 4.90 4.90 4.90 Myristicacid 8.05 8.05 8.05 8.05 Palmitic acid 10.69 10.69 10.69 10.69 Stearicacid 9.37 9.37 9.37 9.37 Potassium hydroxide 5.84 5.84 5.84 5.84 SodiumN-cocoyl N-methyl Taurate 2.19 2.19 2.19 2.19 Polyoxyethylene cetylether(20 E.O)/Brij- 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 58 Dipropylene Glycol 20.00 20.0020.00 20.00 Glycerin 11.80 11.80 11.80 11.80 Maltitol solu. 3.00 3.003.00 3.00 ¹Aluminum dimyristate coated TiO₂ 4.00 2.67 2.00 2.00 ²Rediron oxide 0.00 1.33 0.00 1.33 ³Yellow iron oxide 0.00 0.00 2.00 0.67Merquat-100 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 Mineral oil 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00Petroleum Jelly 8.00 8.00 8.00 8.00 Water to 100 9.76 9.76 9.76 9.76 ¹USCosmetics Corporation MT-TAK-77891. ²Kobo BERO/MM3 INCI CI 77491 coatedwith magnesium dimyristate. ³Kobo BGYO-BAS2 INCI CI 77492 coated withtriethyoxysilylethyl polydimethylsiloxyethyl hexyl dimethicone.

Example No. ΔL* Δa* Δb* 28, coated titanium 43.87 −1.90 −7.10 dioxide29, coated TiO₂ and red 44.27 5.02 1.29 iron oxide 30, coated TiO₂ and48.36 −1.67 7.14 yellow iron oxide 31, coated TiO₂ and red 41.41 10.218.46 and yellow iron oxides

These formulations were used to create wash liquors which were then usedto treat sheets of Parafilm substrate, as in the Deposition TestProtocol. Then L*a*b* measurements were made on the sheets using aHunterLab LabScan XE instrument. The L*a*b* color space has dimension L*for luminance and a* and b* for color-opponent dimensions. In thiscontext, the L* component closely matches the human perception oflightness, with L*=0 corresponding to black and L*=100 to white. Thedimension a* indicates the position of a color between green and red,with negative a* indicating green and positive values indicating red.Similarly, the dimension b* indicates the position between blue(negative value of b*) and yellow (positive value). Pieces of parafilmsubstrate were measured prior to any treatment to establish base L*a*b*values. After the simulated wash with a wash liquor derived from one ofthe above example formulations, the measurement was repeated and thedifferences in each of the color space dimensions, ΔL*, Δa*, and Δb*were determined as presented above. The data shown are the average of atleast 6 determinations. Relative to the titania pigment, addition of thered iron oxide gives a distinct increase in the red component (Δa*) andin the yellow component (Δb*). Addition of the yellow iron oxide gives asignificant increase in the yellow color component (Δb*) and addition ofboth iron oxides strongly increases both the red and yellow colorcomponents. These results show that the iron oxide pigments are beingdeposited on the substrate and giving their characteristic colors.

Additionally, other types of particles could be included in thisinvention, specifically high void fraction or porous particles whichcould be loaded with perfume, antimicrobial actives, sunscreen actives,or pigments. The only requirement is that these particles behydrophobically modified.

Example 32 Hydrophobic Modification of Enhancing Particle to Improve ItsDispersibility and Stability

The Flotation Test is used to gauge the degree of hydrophobicmodification of enhancing particles. The critical surface tension forflotation was measured as described in the protocol and the fraction ofa given type of particles floating in a methanol/water mixture with asurface tension of 40 or 30 mN/m is indicated. Particles which stillfloat at a surface tension of 40 mM/m or lower are deemed hydrophobic,those floating at a surface tension of 30 mN/m or lower are deemed veryhydrophobic.

Example % floated at 40 mN/m % floated at 30 mN/m ¹Standard titanium 0 0dioxide ²Coated titanium dioxide 100 100 ³Red iron oxide 100 100 ⁴Yellowiron oxide 100 100 ¹American International Chemical, Inc. TIOKFP. ²USCosmetics Corporation MT-TAK-77891 coated with aluminum dimyristate.³Kobo BERO/MM3 INCI CI 77491 coated with magnesium dimyristate. ⁴KoboBGYO-BAS2 INCI CI 77492 coated with triethyoxysilylethylpolydimethylsiloxyethyl hexyl dimethicone.

The results of this test demonstrate that the treated particles underconsideration are very hydrophobic.

Examples 33 Effect of Soap Level on Storage Stability

A series of formulations were prepared at a fixed degree of fatty acidneutralization of 77.5% but with declining levels of total soap: 33, 30,27.5, 25, 22.5, 20, 17.5, and 15%. The systems were left undisturbed ina storage room, thermostated at 45° C., for twelve weeks. All sampleswith total soap levels below 30% split into a water-rich phase and asoap-rich phase during storage, showing that a minimal soap level is anecessary requirement for a viable product.

1. A liquid soap composition comprising: (a) 10-50% by weight of a fattyacid blend of C₁₂-C₁₈ fatty acids; (b) wherein degrees of neutralizationof fatty acid blend is between 70% and 90%; (c) 10-40% by weightco-solvent; (d) less than about 18% by weight water; (e) 3 to 20% byweight emollient or occlusive oil; (f) 0.1-60% make-up agents; and (g)wherein (e) and (f) are modified by treatment with multivalent soapand/or hydrophobic agents selected from the group consisting ofhydrophobically modified cationic, hydrophobically modified non-ionicpolymer, and mixtures thereof; wherein ratio of co-solvent (c) to water(d) is from 0.4 to
 10. 2. A composition according to claim 1 whereinco-solvent is selected from the group consisting of glycerol, ethyleneglycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol andmixtures thereof.
 3. A composition according to claim 1 wherein oil is apolar or non-polar oil selected from the group consisting of hydrocarbonoils, silicone oils, ester oils and mixtures thereof.
 4. A compositionaccording to claim 1 wherein oil is mineral oil or petrolatum.
 5. Acomposition according to claim 1 wherein make-up agents are selectedform the group consisting of iron oxide pigments, copper oxide pigmentsand mixtures thereof.
 6. A composition according to claim 1 wherein saidcompositions additionally comprise particles selected from the groupconsisting of mica, talc, titania and mixtures thereof.
 7. A compositionaccording to claim 1 comprising 20-40% by weight fatty acid.
 8. Acomposition according to claim 1 wherein degree of neutralization isbetween 75% and 85%.
 9. A method of enhancing deposition of make-upagents which method comprises washing skin with liquid soap compositioncomprising: (a) 10-50% by weight of a fatty acid blend of C₁₂-C₁₈ fattyacids; (b) wherein degrees of neutralization of fatty acid blend isbetween 70% and 90%; (c) 10-40% by weight co-solvent; (d) less thanabout 18% by weight water; (e) 3 to 20% by weight emollient or occlusiveoil; (f) 0.1 to 60% by wt. make-up agents; and (g) wherein (e) and (f)are modified by treatment with multivalent soap and/or hydrophobicagents selected from the group consisting of hydrophobically modifiedcationic, hydrophobically modified non-ionic polymer, and mixturesthereof; wherein ratio of co-solvent (c) to water (d) is from 0.4 to 10.